In southern China, the customs around the beginning of winter (Lidong) include:

1. **Dongfanggong**: In some areas, it's customary to set up a "Eastern Altar" (Dongfanggong) to honor the gods and ancestors. It involves offerings like tea, fruit, and joss sticks.
2. **Making Zaozi (Sesame Seed Balls)**: It's a traditional custom in many southern provinces to make Zaozi during Lidong. These balls are made from glutinous rice flour and sesame seeds, symbolizing prosperity and reunion.
3. **Wearing Warm Attire**: With the change in seasons, people in the south may start wearing heavier clothes and scarves, preparing for the colder weather.
4. **Enjoying Traditional Dishes**: In certain regions, there are specific foods that are considered lucky or warming for the winter. For example, in Guangdong, people might eat braised duck, while in Hunan, they might have bitter melon soup.
5. **Paying Respect to the Kitchen God**: Some families in southern China will hold a ritual to bid farewell to the Kitchen God just before Lidong. This involves cleaning the kitchen and offering him thanks for his year of protection.
6. **Wearing Red**: Red is a lucky color in Chinese culture, and it's believed to ward off evil spirits. During Lidong, wearing red clothing is a way to protect against bad luck.
7. **Family Gatherings**: Winter is often a time for family gatherings, and Lidong might serve as an occasion for relatives to reunite and celebrate.
8. **Seasonal Celebrations**: Depending on the specific region, Lidong might be celebrated with various local festivals, each with its own set of customs and traditions.
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